Day 62 - Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer, also known as the Golden City, is one of the most famous cities in the royal state of Rajasthan.Jaisalmer was named after its founder, Rao Jaisal. Jaisalmer translates to‘the hill fort of Jaisal’. In earlier times, the area of Jaisalmer was part of Gujarat and until the 11th century was ruled by the Bargujar King. Jaisalmer never came under the direct ruling of the Islamic sultanate due to its unique geographical position although it agreed to pay an annual tribute to the Delhi sultan. Mughal emperor Akbar was also married to one of the princesses of Jaisalmer and thus Jaisalmer maintained a good relationship with the Mughals. The place is strategically placed and was the main trade route between India and other Asian countries. Jaisalmer resisted the invasion from many foreign invaders and was one of the last royal places come under the rule of British. Jaisalmer was the Princely state of British Raj until Indian Independence and ruled by the King Bhati of Rajput Clan.


How to reach here: 

By Air: Nearest airport is Jodhpur, which is at a distance of 285 km from Jaisalmer. Jodhpur is connected to Delhi and Jaipur by air.

By Rail: Jaisalmer railway station is an important railway station in Western railway zone. It is connected to Jodhpur and other cities in India.


Best time to visit: October to March.


Languages spoken: Hindi, Rajasthani, Marwari and English.


Must eat: Ker Sangri, Bhanon Aloo, Kadi Pakora and Murgh-e-Subz.


Famous Restaurants: Saffron, Trio, Natraj.


Places you must visit:

Jaisalmer Fort is a magnificent monument in Jaisalmer. The Jaisalmer fort is the second oldest fort in Rajasthan after Chittorgarh. Jaisalmer fort is also known as the "Sonar Quila" or the Golden fort. This fort was built by the Bhatti Rajput chieftain Rawal Jaisal in 1156 AD, on the highest point of the Tricuta hill.The architecture of the Jaisalmer fort is exquisite. The ramparts, bastions and the long stretching walls of the fort dazzle gloriously during early morning and at the sunset. The fort is two hundred and fifty feet tall and reinforced by an imposing crenellated sandstone wall which is 30 feet high. The fort has 99 bastion, out of which 92 bastions were built between 1633 and 1647. The fort stands almost 30 metres over the city and about one fourth of the population of Jaisalmer lives within the huge ramparts of the fort. It is approached through Ganesh Pol, Suraj Pol, Bhoot Pol and Hawa Pol.The five storey fort adorns itself with balconies and windows that displays some of the finest masonry work, while the interior is painted and tiled in typical Rajput style. The bastions envelops a whole township that consist of palace complex, the havelis of rich merchants, several temples and the residential complexes of the armies and merchants.The main attractions within the fort are a group of beautifully carved Jain temples built between the 12th and 15th century.

Patwon ki Haveli is the largest and most elaborate haveli in Jaisalmer which stands in a narrow lane. This five-storeyed building is extensively carved and is known for its jharokhas (balconies). In the early 19th century, the family of Ghuman Chand Patwa, an extremely rich patwa (trader of brocades and expensive embroidery) began construction of this haveli. The construction of this haveli was undertaken by two architect brothers. This construction took about half a century. While one brother concentrated on the construction in the right side of the haveli, while the other concentrated on construction in the left side of the haveli. As such this haveli is constructed in a symmetrical manner. Patwon ki Haveli is divided into six apartments out of which two are owned by Archaeological Survey of India, two are owned by families who operate craft shops and two are the private homes. There are remnants of miniature paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work. Mighty tuskers carved out of yellow sandstone stand as guards to the haveli.

Nathmal Ji ki haveli was commissioned to serve as the residence of Diwan Mohata Nathmal, the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer. Maharawal Beri Sal commissioned the construction of this Haveli. The architects of this haveli were Hathi and Lulu who happened to be brothers. There is a very interesting story regarding its construction. It is said that the two brothers started building different facets of haveli simultaneously. In those days there were no such instruments, which could keep a track on continuity and thus when this building came up finally it had irregular shape. Barring that, this haveli is still considered the best in Jaisalmer in terms of grandeur. There are other minute details worth appreciation. For example there are two Elephants made of yellow stone. These life-size replicas have been put in front of the main entrance so that it looks as if they are guarding the Haveli. Other than these, there are pictures engraved on pillars and walls. These consist of Horses, Cattle, and depiction of Flora among other things. But the most interesting aspect of this haveli is the drawing of modern amenities such as cars, fans etc. It is said and believed that the Architect brothers dint see these things ever in their life and engraved it with mere help of their descriptions given by people who had seen it. 

Gadsisar Lake - Excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, it is a scenic rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines. Earlier, this lake was used to be the main water source of Jaisalmer.A manmade reservoir, the Gadisar Lake in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan was constructed by Raja Rawal Jaisal, the first ruler of Jaisalmer. In the later years Maharaja Garisisar Singh rebuilt and revamped the lake. Artistically carved Chattris, Temples, Shrines and Ghats surround the banks of Gadisar Lake Jaisalmer. Located towards the south of Jaisalmer city the entrance to the Gadisar Lake or Garsisar Tank is through a magnificent and artistically carved yellow sandstone archway that is known as the Tilon-Ki-Pol. 

Jain Temples situated in the Jaisalmer Fort are a must visit site in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. You will find these temples to be very old and high pilgrimage as well as archeological value attached to them. These are a group of Jain temples dating back 12th and 15th centuries and are dedicated to various Jain Tirthankars (Hermits). On the walls of the temples, you can find animal & human figures, carved in famous Dilwara style.These temples are built in the Dilwara style that is famous all over the world for its architecture. The style got its name from the famous 'Dilwara Temples' situated on Mount Abu, a famous Hill station and pilgrimage destination in Rajasthan. The Jain temples in the Jaisalmer Fort are dedicated to Rikhabdevji and Shambhavdev Ji, the famous Jain hermits known as 'Tirthankars'. Like all other structures in Jaisalmer, these temples are craved of yellow sandstones. The beautifully carves decorations on the wall will give you divine peace. The Astapadhi Temples that are situated in the same complex are a must visit too.

Sam Sand dunes is the most popular place to see the total sandy bush less desert. Sam dunes have a truly glorious stretch of sweeping sand dunes. The dunes touched by the wind, and therefore becoming as it were wrinkled, create a mystical picture. The best time to visit these sand dunes is during sunrise or sunset. By visiting the Sam Sand Dunes one can get an insight into real desert life.The best way to experience the brilliant sunrise and sunset is by having a Camel Safari. Exciting desert camel safaris allow you to get the real feel of the desert on the camel back. Camel rides on the sand dunes are a thrilling experience, as is the brilliant sunset. The culture, the people, their way of life, and the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding desert landscape complement the adventurous spirit. 

Bada Bagh, also called Barabagh (literally Big Garden) is a garden complex about 6 kms north of Jaisalmer on way to Ramgarh, and halfway between Jaisalmer and Lodhruva in the state of Rajasthan in India. It contains a set of royal cenotaphs, or chhatris of Maharajas of Jaisalmer state, starting with Jai Singh II.A descendant of Maharawal Jaisal Singh, the founder of the state and Maharaja of Jaisalmer, Jai Singh II (1688 – 1743), commissioned a dam to create a water tank during his reign in the 16th century. This made the desert green in this area.After his death on September 21, 1743, his son Lunkaran built a beautiful garden next to the lake and a chhatri (Hindi for cenotaph) for his father on a hill next to the lake. Later on, many more cenotaphs were constructed here for Lunkaran and other Bhattis. The last chhatri, meant for maharaja Jawahar Singh, dates from the 20th century and remains unfinished after Indian independence.

Wood Fossil Park is the place that takes you beyond History. It takes you back to the prehistoric Jurassic era, which is, hold your breath, 180 million years back! It is a fossil park where stood a forest 180 millions years ago. Then the area submersed in to the sea and the tree trunks got preserved in the form of fossils.The fossil trunks lie scattered in this park. Fossilized tree trunks are of various sizes with the largest being 13 meters in length and 1.5 meters in width. Covering about 10 sq. Km of bare hillside, the Fossil Park contains 25 petrified trunks, in total. 

Khuri Village of Rajasthan came into picture about 5 years ago and lies approximately 40 Kms South West of Jaisalmer. It is surrounded by Desert Hills. It is becoming a popular destination to those who are in search of traditional village life and wish to spend a night in thatched Huts.

Lodurva or Lodarva is a village in Jaisalmer district, Rajasthan, India. Situated 15 km to the north-west of Jaisalmer, it was ancient capital of the Bhatti dynasty till 1156 AD, when Rawal Jaisal shifted it to present Jaisalmer, when he founded the of Jaisalmer state.In the 9th century, Deoraj, a famous prince of the Bhati Rajput clan, captured Lodhruva from another Rajput clan and made it his capital. The city stood on an ancient trade route through the Thar Desert, which also vulnerable to frequent attacks. Mahmud of Ghazni laid siege on the city in 1025 AD, in the coming decades the city, now more vulnerable was repeatedly attacked by foreign invaders. Later it was again attack and sacked by Muhammad Ghori in 1152 AD, which eventually led to its abandonment and established in new capital Jaisalmer by subsequent ruler, Rawal Jaisal, 16-km away on a more secure Trikuta Hill in 1156 AD, where the present fortress stand today.

Gopa Chowk is the central market square in Jaisalmer, which is famous for its sunset views. This market square is situated on the foot of the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer. The Gopa Chowk is located in the front of the first fort gate, Akhai Pol.

Mool Sagar is a  popular attraction comprises a famous garden and tank that was built for cool summer retreat.The garden belongs to the royal family of Jaisalmer and is known for its Shiva temple. This temple is believed to have been constructed using two large blocks of sandstones.The entire Mool Sagar complex was built by Maharawal Moolraj II in 1815.There are several wells and a Raj Mahal in this Mool Sagar Garden. The palace walls are decorated with different paintings and murals. This garden complex also comprises three Jain Temples that are dedicated to the Jain Tirthankars.

Jaisalmer Folklore Museum  was founded in 1984 on the banks of Gadi Sagar. On display are artifacts ranging from ancient to recent folk arts that reflect the transition through the ages of Jaisalmer’s culture. For better presentation, there are six broad categories of rare folklore items of photographs, jewelries, paintings, costumes and hairstyles.

Chandraprabhu temple was built in 1509 A.D in the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer. It was one of the seven temples that were constructed during the 15th-16th century and are specifically dedicated to the 8th Tirthankara, Jain Prophet Chandraprabhuji. Apart from its religious significance, the temple is also know for beautiful Rajput style architecture in red stone especially the beautiful carvings, geometrical patterns and curved facades are well known.

One of three temples constructed on the banks of Mool Sagar is Rishabhadeva Temple dedicated to Adinatha or Rishabh Dev, the first Jain Tirthankara. The temple is highly revered and is also known for its beautiful architecture. It was built in the 16th century and reflects the intricate expertise of the Rajasthani style. Imposing corridors and carved facades are splendid with a serene and pious atmosphere.

Shitalnath temple was built during the 16th century. It is dedicated to the 10th Tirthankara, Jain Prophet Shitalnath and is a holy pilgrimage for followers of Jainism. The intricate sculptures and massive pillars are awe striking. The most attractive is the idol of Shitalnath which has been molded from 8 precious metals. Apart from the religious significance, the Rajput style of architecture draws tourists to the temple.

Shantinath temple is one of seven Jain temples within the Golden Fort. It was built in 1536 A.D and was built to worship the Jain thirtankar, Shri Shantinath. The beautiful idol of the saint has been majestically carved. The temple is known for its architecture and religious significance.

There are four gates Akhai Pol, Ganesh Pol, Suraj Pol and Hawa Pol to the Jaisalmer fort or Golden Fort. However, the best known for the architectural splendor is the Akhai Pol or the First Fort Gate. This imposing Gate was built in 1156 A.D and was the entrance for the royal family and important visitors. 

Tazia Tower of Jaisalmer is a five-storey building situated near the Badal Palace complex. This tower was the former home of the royal family of Jaisalmer. The intricate designs, minarets and architectural fusion of this tower make it one of the most attractive buildings in Jaisalmer.Each floor of this tower has a separate balcony with varied designs. The complete structure which is based on the shape of Tazia was built by Muslim craftsmen for the Hindu rulers in 1886.Tazia is said to be the replica of the mausoleum of several Imams. The Muslim artisans gifted this masterpiece to the imperial king Maharawal Berisal Singh. Tazia Tower was made using wood and thermocol, and is adorned by several carvings and colourful papers.

The Desert Cultural Center and Museum symbolizes the true artistic brilliance and craftsmanship of Jaisalmer. This museum was established in 1997 and has a wide collection of traditional instruments, medieval coins and ethnic artifacts  This museum also consists of rare fossils, ancient scriptures and royal age coins.The museum is very famous among international travelers for the traditional opium mixing box named 'Karal'.There is an extensive collection of rare articles in the museum which include textiles, handicrafts, utensils, manuscripts and many more.

The Government Museum ,established in 1984, this museum has a rich collection of marine and wood fossils. It also features some of the rarest sculptures from Kiradu and Lodurva townships of the 12th century.There are common marine fossils, limestone and sandstone that have been laid down during the prehistoric times in the sea. This fossil record represents various hard-shelled invertebrates and vertebrate animals. Further, the fossils of soft-bodied animals like worms and anemones can also be seen in the Government Museum.

Amar Sagar Lake is a lake cum oasis, which lies adjacent to the Amar Singh Palace. This palace was constructed during the 17th century by Maharawal Akhai Singh in honour of his predecessor Amar Singh.There are pavilions with stairs near the palace that lead down towards the Amar Sagar Lake. The whole construction of this palace resembles pattern of apartments. It is a 5 storey building which is famous for its murals.This complex of Amar Sagar Lake and Palace includes various ponds and wells, along with an old Shiva Temple. Amar Singh, who was a great follower of Lord Shiva, built this temple in this complex.

Surrounding this lake are varied figureheads of animals that have been carved in stone. As per legends, the carved figureheads are said to be the protectors of the royal family.

Haveli Shreenath was built by the Vyas family during the 15th century. This haveli has been turned into Haveli Shreenath Palace Hotel, offering luxury accommodation. Once inhabited by the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, this haveli is now occupied by the descendants of the royal family. There are numerous rooms in the haveli and only 5 of these are available for guests.Tourists can join the Vyas family and enjoy the royal treatment as well as admire the architectural treasure. Some of the doors and ceilings of this haveli are carved from wood, which are hundreds of years old. These doors also have brass or iron fittings that add to the beauty.

Pokaran, meaning ‘the place of five mirages’, is on the way from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer and can be reached within a couple of hours from Jaisalmer, by road.  A remote place in the Thar Desert, it is most famous as the site for India’s first underground nuclear testing. However, there’s more to Pokaran than the nuclear testing site. Legend has it that Ram fitted his bow with an arrow that generated so much heat that it could dry up the seas and oceans of Sri Lanka. After being persuaded not to shoot the arrow in Lanka, he shot it to the Saraswati River, which led to the drying up of the whole river and the place turned into a desolate desert land.    It is a popular pilgrimage site for Jains with a Jain temple dedicated to the 23rd Jain Tirthankara, Lord Parsvanath situated here. 

Khabha is a small village almost 35 km from Jaisalmer. The main attraction here is the Khabha Fort which also has a Geological Museum. More than 50% of the village is uninhabited with ruins of houses more than 250 years old scattered around. The rural lifestyle of the native people can be seen here as farmers take out their herds for grazing and women milk the cows and prepare food on an earthen oven.

 

The ghost village of Kuldhara, around 25 km west of Jaisalmer, has an interesting historical background. It is a deserted village now and has remained that way for almost 200 years now. The houses, or the remains of them, depict a Hindu architectural style with an inner and outer courtyard, kitchen and stables as well as a ‘tulsi manch’. The houses are yellowish in colour depicting the colour of the mud and stones used to build them. It is said that the residents of Kuldhara and that of 83 other neighbouring villages were forced to vacate their homes because of their ruthless rulers. The residents were all Paliwal Brahmans who had stayed there for generations, for almost 500 years.  According to belief, the Paliwals had put a curse on the village that nobody will ever be able to inhabit it again. 

The Laxminath Temple is situated inside the Jaisalmer Fort. It is dedicated to the goddess of wealth Laxmi and her husband Vishnu. Built in 1494, during the reign of Rao Lunkaran, it is one of the oldest temples in Jaisalmer. The idols inside the temple are believed to have been installed by Sen Pal Shakdvipi, a Brahmin. 

The Maharaja’s Palace is situated within the premises of the Jaisalmer Fort, in the main square or ‘chowk’. Officially known as the Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum and Heritage Centre, it is popularly called the palace. The five storied building is known for its intricate details and architectural splendour. Handrails with latticed tops, intricately carved window screens and balconies are some of the things to look out for. The rooftop provides 360⁰ views of Jaisalmer and the Thar Desert on a clear day.    Inside the palace, to the left of the entrance is the marble throne of the maharaja from where he’d have addressed his subjects. Also on display are artefacts and objects like silver coronation throne, bed, dish, local stamps and banknotes, sculptures etc.

Ram Kund is located 11 km away from Jaisalmer on the banks of the Kak River. There is a temple here which was built during the reign of Maharaja Amar Singh (1659-1701) by his wife Mansukhi Devi. The principal deity of the temple is Rama but there are idols of Ganesh, Mahishasur and Bhairu as well. There are some inscriptions on the walls and the Govardhan Pillar outside the temple which date back to the 18th century. 

Trikuta Hill is the place on which is perched the Jaisalmer Fort. It is believed that Krishna had forecasted to Arjuna that one of his progeny down the line would set up a kingdom on the hill. The prophecy came true when Rawal Jaiswal, who belonged to the Yadava clan of Krishna, shifted his kingdom from Lodurva to Jaisalmer in 1196 due to repeated attacks by foreign invaders. Jaisalmer flourished due to its strategic location on the trade route connecting Central Asia and the Far East. The legacy of the rich merchants and their havelis with intricately carved details can still be seen today inside the fort complex.